Brakes and Suspension Power Steering Rack Replacement Estimated reading: 8 minutes Contributors Overview This guide walks you through replacing the power steering rack on your Porsche 944 with a 16v engine. The power steering rack is crucial for smooth and responsive steering, and replacing it can restore control if it’s worn out or leaking. This procedure assumes you have some mechanical experience and the right tools—improper installation can affect steering and safety, so take your time and follow each step carefully. Pink and blue text represents links to additional resources, tools, parts, and partner websites. Tools Required Jack stands or ramps Floor jack Drop light Wheel blocks 19mm (3/4 inch) wheel wrench 19mm (3/4 inch) wrench 17mm (11/16 inch) wrench 10mm (3/8 inch) wrench 12mm (1/2 inch) wrench 13mm (1/2 inch) wrench 13mm (1/2 inch) socket 30mm (1-3/16 inch) wrench 6mm (1/4 inch) Allen wrench 10 inch (254mm) adjustable wrench 3-quart (2.8L) low-profile basin Small gear puller 8 inch (203mm) long 3/8 inch drive extension 12 inch (305mm) long 3/8 inch drive extension Flat blade screwdriver Cold chisel Flat nosed chisel (drift) 3 inch (76mm) vise with soft jaws Short pry bar 10mm (3/8 inch) socket Parts Required Power steering rack – 933-347-011-24 Tie rod ends (pair) – 944-347-033-23 1 quart (0.95L) Dexron II or III ATF Bronze crush washers (for pressure and return lines) Miscellaneous hardware (bolts, nuts, lock washers) Step-by-Step Procedure Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle Park your Porsche 944 on a flat surface with at least 3.3 feet (1 meter) of clearance around it. Set the parking brake, open the driver’s side window, and block the rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm (3/8 inch) wrench. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a 19mm (3/4 inch) wheel wrench, just enough to remove them later. Jack up each side of the car at the designated jacking points and place jack stands under the frame rails, aiming for about 18 inches (46 cm) of ground clearance. Remove the front wheels and set them aside. Remove the belly pan by taking out the 7 bolts with a 10mm (3/8 inch) socket and a 3/8 inch drive ratchet. Place a 3-quart (2.8L) basin under the power steering pump, then use a 19mm (3/4 inch) wrench to remove the pressure line from the pump. Let the fluid drain into the basin. Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times through the open window to drain fluid from the steering gear, then let it finish draining. Step 2: Remove the Front Sway Bar On the passenger side, remove the 2 sway bar clamp bolts from the frame anchor using a 13mm (1/2 inch) socket and a 13mm (1/2 inch) wrench. On the driver’s side, use a 13mm (1/2 inch) socket with an 8 inch (203mm) 3/8 inch drive extension to remove the 2 bolts holding the sway bar frame anchor to the frame. Remove the anchor for clearance. Use a 17mm (11/16 inch) wrench to remove the nut attaching the sway bar to each control arm, then remove the sway bar. Loosen the clamps on the alternator cool air intake tube with a flat blade screwdriver and remove the tube for better access to the steering gear. Step 3: Disconnect the Tie Rod Ends On each side, loosen the tie rod end locking nut with a 19mm (3/4 inch) wrench until it’s just above the stud end. Use a small gear puller to separate each tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Alternatively, strike the steering knuckle with a hammer to pop it loose, but avoid damaging the boot if reusing the tie rod ends. Step 4: Disconnect the Steering Column Universal Joint Turn the steering wheel until the universal clamp bolt is accessible from under the car. Reach behind the steering column, place a 13mm (1/2 inch) wrench on the nut, and use a 13mm (1/2 inch) socket with a 12 inch (305mm) 3/8 inch drive extension to remove the clamp bolt completely. Use a short pry bar to gently loosen the clamp from the steering gear shaft. It won’t come off fully until the rack is lowered. Step 5: Remove the Steering Rack Use a 6mm (1/4 inch) Allen wrench to remove the return line from the steering gear housing. If it’s seized, use channel locks carefully. Remove the pressure line support clamp and ground wire from the rack housing using a 13mm (1/2 inch) wrench. Remove the 4 rack mounting bolts with a 13mm (1/2 inch) wrench. Slide the rack out of its mounts while slipping the universal joint off the steering gear shaft as you lower it. Transfer these parts from the old rack to the new one: high pressure line support clamp with 10mm bolt, rubber spacer, plastic compensating line with L-shaped fittings, and left/right side mounts. Step 6: Remove Tie Rods from the Old Rack Label the left and right tie rod ends for reassembly. Pull the boots away from the steering gear housing to expose the inner ball joints. Extend the driver’s side of the rack fully, clamp it in a 3 inch (76mm) vise with soft jaws, gripping about 3 inches (75mm) of rack teeth securely. Use a cold chisel to remove the peened flange from the locking notch on each end of the rack. Remove the tie rod assemblies with a 30mm (1-3/16 inch) wrench (both are right-hand threads). Step 7: Install Tie Rods on the New Rack Clamp the new rack in the vise as in Step 6, avoiding damage to the gear grease. Screw in the labeled left and right tie rod assemblies by hand. Tighten each tie rod assembly to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs) with a 30mm (1-3/16 inch) wrench. Use a flat nosed chisel to peen the inner ball joint flange into the locking notch on each end. Remove the rack from the vise and reinstall the boots on the steering gear housing. Step 8: Prepare the New Rack for Installation Slide the left and right side mounts onto the new rack. Install the rubber spacer under the rack line. Attach the high pressure line with new bronze crush washers, tightening to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) with a 6mm (1/4 inch) Allen wrench. Loosely attach the support clamp with a 10mm bolt (remove it later during installation). Insert the L-shaped fittings into the compensating line and push them firmly into the rack housing. Step 9: Install the New Rack Center the rack by removing the plastic plug from the view port on the steering gear housing underside and turning the shaft until the red dimple aligns with the hole. Place the rack into position on the passenger side and finger-tighten one mounting bolt. Let the driver’s side hang slightly. Turn the steering wheel straight (an assistant can hold it), aligning the universal clamp with the shaft flat. Push the rack up into place, sliding the universal clamp onto the shaft. Tap it down lightly with a hammer if needed. Install and finger-tighten the upper driver’s side mounting bolt, then the remaining two bolts. Tighten all 4 rack mounting bolts to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) with a 13mm (1/2 inch) wrench. Install the clamp bolt on the universal joint with a 13mm (1/2 inch) wrench and socket. Attach the high pressure line to the pump with new bronze crush washers, tightening to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs). Attach the return line to the rack housing with new bronze crush washers, tightening to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs). Secure the high pressure and compensating lines to the rack with a plastic tie wrap at the rubber spacer location. Remove the view port plug, install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, and tighten the locking nuts to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs) with a 19mm (3/4 inch) wrench, using a puller to hold the joint steady. Reinstall the fresh air tube and driver’s side sway bar mounting bracket. Install the sway bar by connecting the ends to the control arms first, tightening to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs) with a 17mm (11/16 inch) wrench. Raise the sway bar with a jack until the clamps align with the brackets, then install and tighten the clamp bolts to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs). Step 10: Bleed the System Install the wheels, tighten the lug nuts with a 19mm (3/4 inch) wrench, and lower the car off the jack stands. Fill the power steering reservoir with Dexron II or III ATF. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Wait a few minutes, then turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly until no bubbles appear in the reservoir and the fluid level stabilizes. Post Procedure Checklist Check the power steering fluid level with the engine off and on; if it rises more than 0.4 inches (10mm), repeat the bleeding process. Inspect for leaks around the pressure and return lines. Ensure the steering wheel turns smoothly lock-to-lock without unusual noise. Take the car for a short test drive (3 miles / 5 km) and schedule a front-end alignment. Sources Clark’s Garage Pelican Parts Porsche 944 Workshop Manual, Volume 1 Youtube Tagged:Brakes and SuspensionPower Steering Power Steering Rack Replacement - PreviousPower Steering Rack RebuildNext - Power Steering Rack ReplacementRear Sway Bar Removal and Installation