Transmission and Clutch Torque Tube Removal, Rebuilding, and Installation – 2.5L NA Estimated reading: 7 minutes Contributors Overview This guide outlines the procedure for removing, rebuilding, and installing the torque tube on all Porsche 944 variants with an 8-valve engine, covering both pre-1985.5 (83–85.5) and 1985.5 onwards (86–88) variants. The torque tube connects the engine to the transaxle, transmitting power to the rear wheels. This procedure is essential for addressing worn bearings or drive shaft issues, ensuring smooth power delivery. Follow these steps carefully to avoid damaging components. Pink and blue text represent links to additional resources, tools, parts, and partner websites. Tools Required Metric wrench set Metric socket set Jack stands (6 minimum) Floor jack 8mm (5/16 inch) Cheesehead socket (12-point internal or triple square socket) Transmission jack (recommended for easier transaxle removal) 6-foot long 1/2 inch steel plumbing pipe Large hammer 6-foot long 3/4-10 threaded rod Five 3/4-10 nuts Two thick flat washers (fender washers) Flat bar or spacer with 1 inch hole Large socket (optional, for bearing removal) Impact wrench (optional, for faster bearing removal) Hydraulic press Plastic mallet Ball peen hammer Drill (Pre-85.5, for riveted bearing carriers) Parts Required Torque tube bearing assemblies (4) – FAG 6006 2Z Inner sleeves (4, if not reusing originals) – custom fabricated from Delrin plastic Loctite anti-seize lubricant – 271 Required Additional Procedures Steps in these procedures are required to complete this process: Transaxle Removal Transaxle Installation Exhaust System Removal Step-by-Step Procedure Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle Slightly loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels using a lug wrench. Raise the vehicle using a floor jack and secure it on at least six jack stands, ensuring it is level and stable. Remove both rear wheels using a lug wrench. Step 2: Remove the Exhaust System Remove the exhaust system from the flange at the exhaust manifolds back. Follow this link to ensure this step – Exhaust System Removal – is followed accurately. Step 3: Remove the Transaxle Remove the transaxle from the vehicle using a transmission jack. Follow this link to ensure this step – Transaxle Removal – is followed accurately. Disconnect the shifter rod from the transaxle. Step 4: Lower the Rear Suspension Place jack stands or blocks under the swing arms to support the rear suspension. Remove the front two bolts (one on each side) securing the rear suspension to the chassis using a 13mm socket. Remove the four bolts (two on each side) halfway up the wheel arch and the two bolts (one on each side) at the top of the wheel arch using a 13mm socket. Loosen the bottom shock mount on each side using a 17mm wrench. Disconnect any wires and brake lines necessary to lower the suspension without damage. If needed, disconnect the brake lines to gain clearance, and rest the suspension on blocks or bricks. – Note: Ensure brake lines are properly reconnected and bled after reassembly to avoid air in the system. Step 5: Remove the Torque Tube Remove the starter and slave cylinder if necessary to access all torque tube bolts, using a 13mm socket for the starter and a 10mm socket for the slave cylinder. Remove the four bolts connecting the torque tube to the clutch housing using a 13mm socket. Disconnect the torque tube carriers using a 15mm socket. Lower the torque tube and slide it toward the rear of the vehicle. For 85.5 Onwards models: – Rotate the torque tube 180° to clear the dog ears before sliding it out. Step 6: Disassemble the Torque Tube Measure and record the distance from the transmission end of the drive shaft to the bellhousing end of the torque tube for reassembly. Slip a 6-foot long 1/2 inch steel plumbing pipe over the pilot diameter at the front of the drive shaft. Use a large hammer to pound the drive shaft out toward the bellhousing side of the torque tube. Step 7: Remove the Bearings Assemble a bearing puller using a 6-foot long 3/4-10 threaded rod, five 3/4-10 nuts, two thick flat washers, and a flat bar or spacer with a 1-inch hole. – Slide the spacer or washer onto one end of the threaded rod, then lock two nuts together near the end. – Optionally, place a large socket in front of the washers to act as a driver. Insert the rod into the bellhousing end of the torque tube. Place the flat bar or spacer onto the protruding end of the threaded rod at the front of the torque tube, add a washer and nut, and hold the nut stationary with a wrench. Lock two nuts together at the protruding end of the threaded rod. Use an impact wrench to spin the locked nuts counterclockwise, pulling the bearings out. Alternatively, turn the nut against the flat bar with a wrench (this takes longer). For Pre-85.5 models: – Drill out the rivets on the two-piece bearing carriers to separate them and remove the bearings. Unstake and remove the rubber-coated inner sleeves from the bearings. Save intact sleeves for reuse or have new ones fabricated from Delrin plastic. Step 8: Install New Bearings Use a hydraulic press to install new FAG 6006 2Z bearings and inner sleeves into the bearing carriers. Mark the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th bearing locations inside the torque tube, with the 1st at the front, using bearing marks on the shaft. Ensure all four bearing housings are oriented identically, with inner sleeves positioned to prevent dislodging when the shaft is driven in. Apply 271 Loctite anti-seize inside the torque tube to ease bearing installation. Install the 2nd bearing from the front end using the 3/4-10 threaded rod until it reaches the second bearing mark, then install the 1st bearing. Install the 3rd and 4th bearings from the back end using the same method. Step 9: Reinstall the Drive Shaft Insert the drive shaft into the torque tube from the front end, transmission end first, using a plastic mallet to tap it in. When the shaft reaches the 4th bearing, use a 1/2 inch x 2 inch pipe inserted into the pilot bearing end and tap with a ball peen hammer to position the shaft based on the recorded measurement. – Note: Ensure the sleeve ID has the correct tolerance fit to avoid excessive force or looseness, which could damage bearings or cause vibrations. Step 10: Install the Torque Tube Slide the torque tube back into position in the vehicle. For 85.5 Onwards models: – Rotate the torque tube 180° to align the dog ears, then rotate it back to its normal orientation once the front flange is near the clutch housing. Move the torque tube forward until the drive shaft slides into the pressure plate and clutch disc, and the torque tube flange is flush with the clutch housing. Support the back end with a jack stand. Install the four bolts securing the torque tube to the clutch housing flange, tightening to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) using a 13mm socket. Reinstall the torque tube carriers and their bolts, tightening to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a 15mm socket. Step 11: Reassemble the Suspension and Transaxle Raise the rear suspension and reinstall the retaining bolts, tightening to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) using a 13mm socket. Reattach any disconnected brake lines and wires, ensuring proper connections. Reattach the lower shock mounts, tightening to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs) using a 17mm wrench. Install the transaxle using a transmission jack. Follow this link to ensure this step – Transaxle Installation – is followed accurately. Step 12: Final Reassembly Reinstall the starter and slave cylinder if removed, tightening bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using 13mm and 10mm sockets, respectively. Reinstall the exhaust system. Follow this link to ensure this step – Exhaust System Removal – is followed accurately. Install the rear wheels and tighten lug nuts to 130 Nm (96 ft-lbs) using a lug wrench. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using a floor jack. Post Procedure Checklist Verify the torque tube is securely fastened to the clutch housing and carriers. Check that all suspension bolts are tightened to the specified torque values. Ensure brake lines are reconnected and bled to remove air, confirming proper brake function. Inspect for any loose tools or debris under the vehicle. Test drive the vehicle for 5 miles (8 km) to confirm smooth operation and no vibrations from the torque tube. Sources Clark’s Garage Pelican Parts Porsche 944 Workshop Manuals YouTube Tagged:Torque TubeTransmission and Clutch Torque Tube Removal, Rebuilding, and Installation – 2.5L NA - PreviousManual Transaxle Fluid Change – 2.5L NANext - Torque Tube Removal, Rebuilding, and Installation – 2.5L NATransaxle – Checking, Repairing, and Replacing the Shift Lever and Shift Linkage – 2.5L NA