Body Rear Hatch – Squeaking – 2.5L NA Estimated reading: 6 minutes Contributors Overview This procedure addresses squeaking or rattling noises from the rear hatch of a Porsche 944 ( with an 8-valve engine configuration, 1983–1988). Common causes include dried-out hatch seals, a loose latch mechanism, or the rear glass separating from the hatch frame due to repeated slamming. The guide covers adjusting the hatch posts, lubricating the latch, and, if necessary, repairing separated glass by removing and resealing the hatch. Proper execution ensures a quieter, secure rear hatch. Pink and blue text represent links to additional resources, tools, parts, and partner websites. Tools Required 10mm (3/8 inch) wrench Phillips screwdriver Flat-blade screwdriver Vise-grips (optional for trim removal) Drill (optional for stuck screws) 1.5-inch wide flexible putty knife Sharp utility knife Razor blade scraper 4X steel wool Cotton cloth Thin wooden block (for wedging) Socket wrench with 10mm (3/8 inch) socket (Pre-85.5) Socket wrench with 13mm (1/2 inch) socket (85.5 Onwards) Parts Required High-quality grease (for latch lubrication) 3M Window Weld Urethane Auto Glass Sealant, 08693 (for glass repair) WD-40 (for easing trim and glass separation) Fine polishing compound (for glass cleaning) Step-by-Step Procedure Step 1: Adjust the Hatch Posts Locate the two adjustable posts on the rear hatch, near the latch mechanism. Using a 10mm (3/8 inch) wrench, loosen the lock nut next to each post. Turn each post clockwise 2–3 turns to tighten the hatch fit. Tighten the lock nuts with the 10mm (3/8 inch) wrench to 10 Nm (7.4 ft-lbs). Test the hatch by closing it gently. Ensure it latches easily without excessive force. If it’s hard to latch, loosen the posts slightly by turning counterclockwise. Step 2: Lubricate the Latch Mechanism Open the rear hatch and locate the latch mechanisms on both sides of the hatch frame. Apply a high-quality grease to the moving parts of the latch mechanisms using a small brush or cloth. Work the latch by opening and closing it several times to distribute the grease. Wipe away any excess grease with a clean cloth. Step 3: Inspect for Glass Separation Check the rear hatch glass for signs of separation from the frame, especially near the hinges. Look for gaps or movement when pressing the glass. If no separation is found, test the hatch by driving 5 miles (8 km) to confirm the squeaking is resolved. If resolved, no further steps are needed. If separation is detected, proceed to the glass repair steps below. Step 4: Remove the Rear Hatch Disconnect the rear window defroster wires, located on each side of the hatch glass. Lower the rear hatch but prevent it from latching by placing a piece of wood (approximately 2 inches thick) between the hatch and the body. Disconnect the rear hatch shocks by unclipping them from their mounts. From inside the car, remove the bolts securing the hatch hinges to the body (2 hinges, 2 bolts per hinge). (Pre-85.5) Remove the hinge covers to access the bolts. Use a socket wrench with a 10mm (3/8 inch) socket to remove the bolts, tightened to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs). (85.5 Onwards) Remove the rear header panel to access the bolts. Use a socket wrench with a 13mm (1/2 inch) socket to remove the bolts, tightened to 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lbs). With an assistant, carefully lift the rear hatch off the car and place it on a padded surface to avoid scratching the glass. Step 5: Remove Trim Strips Locate the trim strips around the edge of the hatch, secured by clips accessible from the underside. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully release the clips and remove the top trim strip. For the side trim, use vise-grips to remove the knurled-knob nuts securing the trim. Apply WD-40 to ease removal if the nuts are stuck. Remove the rear spoiler trim by unscrewing the Phillips head screws. If screws are stripped, drill them out carefully with a drill. Step 6: Separate the Glass from the Frame Apply WD-40 to the sealant between the glass and the frame to ease separation. Use a sharp utility knife to cut the outer edge of the sealant along the top side of the hatch. Insert a 1.5-inch wide flexible putty knife between the glass and the frame, with the sharpened side facing the sealant (not the glass). Gently work the knife to separate the sealant, applying WD-40 as needed. Wedge a thin wooden block between the glass and frame where separation has occurred to keep the gap open. Be careful not to bend the frame. Continue working around the entire hatch until the glass is fully separated from the frame. This may take several hours. Step 7: Clean the Glass and Frame Use a razor blade scraper to remove residual sealant from the glass, followed by 4X steel wool to clean the surface. Polish the glass with a fine polishing compound and a cotton cloth to remove any minor scratches. Clean the frame with adhesive remover to ensure a smooth bonding surface. Avoid using harsh solvents like carb cleaner, as they are ineffective against old sealant. Step 8: Reinstall the Hatch Frame With an assistant, reinstall the hatch frame onto the car in the closed position, securing the hinge bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) for Pre-85.5 or 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lbs) for 85.5 Onwards. Do not attach the hatch shocks yet. Check the frame’s alignment with the hatch seals. If the frame is bent, gently adjust it to ensure a proper seal. Step 9: Rebond the Glass Apply a continuous bead of 3M Window Weld Urethane Auto Glass Sealant (08693) around the hatch frame, following the product’s instructions. Position the glass upside down behind the car, with the rear edge facing forward. Place the rear edge into the frame, then rotate the glass forward until it’s nearly in place. Have one person hold the glass from inside the car while the other ensures proper alignment. Lower the glass fully into the frame. Press down around the edges of the glass to ensure good contact with the sealant. Fill any gaps between the glass and frame with additional sealant. Allow the sealant to cure for at least 24 hours. Step 10: Reinstall Trim and Shocks Reinstall the trim strips and clips, securing them with the original knurled-knob nuts and Phillips screws. If necessary, unbolt the hatch hinges to access the clips. Reattach the hatch shocks to their mounts. Reconnect the rear window defroster wires. Post Procedure Checklist Close the hatch gently and verify it latches securely without excessive force. Check for any remaining squeaks or rattles by driving 5 miles (8 km). Inspect the glass for proper adhesion to the frame, ensuring no gaps or movement. Confirm the trim strips are securely attached and aligned. Verify the rear window defroster functions correctly. Sources Clark’s Garage Pelican Parts Porsche 944 Workshop Manual, Volume 1 YouTube Tagged:BodyRear Hatch Rear Hatch – Squeaking – 2.5L NA - PreviousPainting a 944 – 2.5L NANext - Rear Hatch – Squeaking – 2.5L NARear Hatch Strut Replacement – 2.5L NA